This is not the final design, it might gain a connector in the final. It might not. But even if it doesn’t, splicing the wires shouldn’t be too difficult for most who’d dare open their watch. I’m pretty confident I can do it.
I’ve repaired and tinkered with many phones and computers, I thought I’d be able to change the battery in my third gen iPod nano… But I completely messed it up because of the soldering. It ain’t easy :(
Soldered in battery still…
This is not the final design, it might gain a connector in the final. It might not. But even if it doesn’t, splicing the wires shouldn’t be too difficult for most who’d dare open their watch. I’m pretty confident I can do it.
True. Although I’d still find a way to mess it up somehow.
That’s me, every time. ‘It’s foolproof’, yeah, I’m about 200 times worse than any fool, sorry.
I’ve repaired and tinkered with many phones and computers, I thought I’d be able to change the battery in my third gen iPod nano… But I completely messed it up because of the soldering. It ain’t easy :(
The nanos are pretty nasty to work on in general
I’ll change 100 of those batteries before I do another Apple Watch battery or lcd
At this size battery connectors add way too much bulk.
I mean you see a ribbon connector right there for the daughterboard, but yeah, maybe it’s too bulky for the current case design.
How much current does that thin ribbon cable carry? Battery connectors need to be more robust.
Should still be able to carry 1 amp, shouldn’t it?