I’ve only used plastic so far. A friend was moving and she gave me her wooden cutting board. I cut something with it, and some grease got on the cutting board. Now I can’t remove the yellow spot no matter what I do. What can I do to clean it?
I’ve only used plastic so far. A friend was moving and she gave me her wooden cutting board. I cut something with it, and some grease got on the cutting board. Now I can’t remove the yellow spot no matter what I do. What can I do to clean it?
get you some mineral oil and beeswax. 2/1 ratio. heat them in a saucepan on low heat until combined. pour the mixture into a shallow vessel - empty tuna cans work great. allow the mixture to solidify. use a dry clean cloth to apply the paste to cutting board. let it sit for an hour and then wipe off the excess.
repeat once a month-ish or when the wood starts to lighten.
How to get mineral oil and beeswax out of a saucepan
the mineral oil makes the beeswax into a soft paste. it wipes out of the pot quite easily.
lol, good luck. also please no petroleum products on wooden kitchenware. smh
There is literal food grade mineral oil for this exact purpose along with lubricating food making equipment. It’s basically completely inert and is sometimes even used as a food ingredient. You can straight up drink a jug of the stuff with no health repercussions other than the violent greasy shits you would get from drinking any oil. Just because it’s a petroleum product doesn’t automatically mean its bad for you.
You had me at “violent greasy shits”
mineral oil is sold at the pharmacy as a laxitive. so yeah, violent greasy shits.
it’s also cheaper to buy at the pharmacy than it is to buy at the woodworking shops as a finish. same stuff tho.
Can you cite any research, not sponsored by the petroleum industry, that relates to this opinion? Walnut oil is a food product, is made from walnuts, doesn’t go rancid, and works quite well for maintenance of cutting boards and other wooden kitchen ware.
walnut oil is lovely. it doesn’t penetrate the wood as deeply as the mineral oil + beeswax tho.
Have you any actual data, you know, like a study of depth of penetration of your petroleum based product compared with other wood finishes?
i witnessed its effects on the woods that i’ve applied it to. i’m a woodworker, not a scientist or academic paper reader/writer.
i’m not sure why it’s now MY petroleum product tho, that’s a weird and aggressive way to ask your (i think rhetorical) question.
doing in fact, when it comes down to it MY preferred finish is actually shellac, but it doesn’t perform well in kitchen applications.
i mean, ok. but as an actual woodworker, my knowledge base shows mineral oil to be a standard food grade treatment for wooden kitchen implements.
And as an actual woodworker, what does your knowledge base have to say about walnut oil?
Not the person you asked, but I recently did some finish tests with natural drying oils.
Besides tung oil, linseed oil, hemp oil and perilla oil, the wallnut oil dried the slowest by far (talking weeks of difference) and needs added airflow and UV light to make anything happen (tung oil and perilla oil even dry out in the dark).
Besides, there’s the slight chance of an undried pocket coming into contact with someone who is allergic.
In my opinion, not worth it with those great alternatives.
I might have used “bad” walnut oil, I had only one sample, but it was unprocessed, organic walnut oil, the expensive stuff. Maybe you need to use the refined, cheap oil to get better results for woodworking.
My experience is different. Dries in a day, or less. Shrug. I’ll keep using walnut, works just fine for my kitchen ware. I’ve used tung and linseed oil for furniture.
Are you maybe using some kind of processed oil with dryers?
Because I haven’t been able to get any natural oil to dry faster than maybe a couple of days to a week. That was on pieces of foil sitting in the sunlight with constant airflow.
So inside of a workpiece, I would assume it will even take much longer than that.
i’m not sure what yall are calling “dry” but generally when applying penetrating oil finishes, one applies a generous amount to the wood, waits a given amount of time, usually a 20 minutes to an hour, and then wipes off the excess. then you flip the rag over and wipe it again. then again. ultimately you want the rag to come back clean and then you’re done.
that’s pretty much it. it’s as dry as it needs to be to be before buffing, waxing, or buffing and waxing the surface.
if you’re waiting days for the oils to dry, it seems likely to me that you’re leaving way too much oil on the wood.
You can also get pre-mixed stuff if all that is a hassle.
I got a wooden cutting board and a tube each of oil and some stuff that seals it, those have lasted for 8 years now maybe.
well i’m a woodworker, and as such i relish a good hassle.
Understandable, I also do things the difficult way in my hobbies.