The dream

Super easy to retro fit to be able to pull it out the water when its a light wind too, great for anybody wanting to reduce using their main engine as a battery charger.

Solar is great on sail boats but often the sails block the sun when they are out so its difficult to get full utilisation. Something like a hydro generator works perfectly with a good sized solar install for a sail boat to cover at anchor and under sail.

So I was talking about hydro generators that go in the water rather than a wind turbine that rely on direct wind. I prefer the former as it doesn’t muck up the aero on the boat (sails can rob it of power with their dirty air) nor does it get in the way of the deck space that is often limited on a smaller boat. You could use both but I am not fan of wind turbines except at anchor.

With a normal sail boat its common to have more wind that you can safely handle with the boat, you can use the drag of a hydro generator, which goes in the water only when you need it, to help slow the boat down rather than reefing or reefing as much (intentionally making the sails smaller). As wind is the only thing generating motion for the sail boat, its free energy that you otherwise would not be using.

Motor boats rely on the motor to move them, so any drag means the motor has to work harder, imagine dragging a drogue (water parachute used as an anchor), its the same thing, its no longer free energy and you are actually spending more energy moving the same distance as the hydro generator doesn’t generate as much energy as it costs to use. Its the same problem for a wind turbine, as that increases aero rather than water drag for the motor boat, requiring more effort from the motor for the same speed & distance.

Motor yachts would be better switching their engine over energy generation as a generator for recharging the EV batteries. Indeed there are some bigger motor yachts that do exactly this as a backup to their solar and dock derived power.

Such high winds impacts motor yachts as well, especially high sided ones. Most of the boats I’ve sailed are without bow thrusters require lines to manveur in even moderate winds in tight marinas. Bow thrusters makes it push button in moderate wind.

Super rich all have crewed boats, so its mostly to do with living space per foot of boat length or them as they just pay their way around the skill issue. Those who do like to occasionally pilot or race their own boat tend to have sailing boats as they are much more rewarding to sail.

The bits that are different between a motor and sail yacht is really just the sails, that part is actually pretty simple to learn (mastering is something else). In mast/boom mains, electric furling head sails, hydraulic or electric winches, all make operating the sails push button.

The navigation and marina skills are the same, if you have bow thrusters. As everything else is at a slower pace, sail boats are easier to get to grips with when under way and new to sailing.

I completely get that not everybody wants to tack their way upwind, but its the pleasure in actually sailing in silence rather than a noisy and smelly motor that is the reward here. That, and the cost saving. I can do two weeks sailing covering hundreds of nautical miles for £50 in fuel for a 40 foot sail boat and that’s with having to run the motor as a generator to charge the batteries (charter boats suck for house electrics and solar), vs. £500 ish for a motor yacht.

Big part of this would be that its a foiling boat and that massively reduces drag from the water. Keeping weight and drag down are the secret to improving efficiency for EVs be they boats or cars. Any decent marina its easy to get multiple 22kw shore supply as well, it can be expensive and metered but you aren’t going to be waiting that long to recharge your boat.

Electric makes the most sense on sail boats as they already have a green source of energy, and thanks to hydro they can convert some of that motion generated by the wind into charge for the batteries. Couple with solar and you start to look at a decent amount of energy generation.

Sail boats also tend to have far less powerful ICE than your average motor yacht, so you need less powerful EV motors to achieve the same speed, and in the right conditions you only really need the motor getting in and out of the harbor so your battery bank is smaller and lighter. Plus you could make the batteries do double duty as the house batteries as well.

The trick will be to get the super rich out of their shitty super yachts that burn a couple of thousand dollars of fuel per hour, they could already have sail boats but choose not to for the increased living space that they can get out of the same length of boat due to being able to build much higher due to no masts.

Worth pointing out that the majority of tourists in Japan are in fact Japanese, at more than 80% of tourists. Next largest group are from Japans closest neighbors in East Asia. Its a minority of a minority that cause all the problems.

I’m only ever logging on because there’s a problem, so i login infrequently, like may be every few months.

So i want want to see the os version as I have some downgraded on purpose, and that’s helpful to see. I also want to see uptime, disk space, ip address, ram, and kernel version. These all help me understand basic issues if the box is rebooting or needs a reboot or it out of disk space very quickly.

Obviously, there are a million and one other ways to get this information, I could even stick them in my .zshrc to auto start on login as I’ve done with fastfetch, but why on earth would I do that when fastfetch works, takes less than a second to run on sign in, and looks pretty?

It’s not like I am not launching a connection to them 100s of times a day.

Ya know that never occurred to me that would work, going to have to try it

I prefer fastfetch, but I have to compile it for my PIs as i couldn’t find a precompile. This is painful for my zeros that I use for my automated watering system, so those have screenfetch. I find fastfetch faster for my options.

Completely get why some people don’t like them, but I just love the ease of seeing all the stats I want when I login to one of my boxes I don’t log into very often.

You are very lucky with that water, saves so much effort and not a small amount of cash to sort it out otherwise.

Best of luck for your search for that god shot off coffee!

Sorry for the slow reply, wanted to take my time writng a response for you.

Is there any particular reason you are using two filters? The modern thinking is often centered around faster draws to get less astringency that is present in over extraction, can be seen as bitterness. If the water is sitting in the grounds for longer, everything else being equal, will have higher extraction up to a point.

breville batista touch Is this your only grinder, is it grinding for the pourovers as well? Its a great machine capable of some great espresso, but its grinder is its weakest link and holds it back. Even a cheap hand grinder like a KINGrinder should offer a noticeable improvement if you are not happy with what you getting and you have already walked through the workflow.

Is your water tasty to drink as is? Can you get hold of Volvic bottled water? That would be my preferred choice for a taste test, both as plain water vs. your water, and to make an espresso with. Obviously there are far cheaper methods to improve water, but as a quick and very simple taste test you cannot beat a one off using bottled water to understand if you can make improvements. Once you know if you can, then you can look at the most cost effective way to do so.

For your beans, since you buy from a local seller do they also operate a cafe? How does their cafe prepared drinks (assuming they actually do a good job with these) compare to yours? Its a good starting point to understand how good a cup a cafe can get out of your beans.

Audio quality is never going to be as good at the same price point because the wireless device has to budget for batteries, the wireless gubbins, aptx codex to license, and usually app development costs.

I have a dragonfly red so I can still use wired headphones with my phone, and its amp is far better than any modern smartphone, so it will drive some of the expensive that phones just cannot, like my Focal Clear OGs.

However I greatly prefer to use my Sony WF-1000XM4 for any public or mobile situation as they are the perfect form factor for that, and the sound quality is good enough that I am not going to tear my hair out listening to them for any length of time.

Isn’t this the plot of the next Toy Story film?

What’s your water and beans like? Do you grind at home already, if so what grinder do you have?

Its a trade off between knowing enough about the hobby to buy the right gear for what you actually need, is it a huge 3D printer? Something that prints really fast? Or may be you need something that can print multiple filaments like a Prusa XL?

Buying the wrong thing when its expensive for you can be worse than buying something cheap that you can learn from. Obviously not everybody needs this learning experience, but most people benefit from it.

Espresso is the big one I see people trying to go hard right out the bat. Typically they will by a Linea Mini or a Decent and then pair it with what has become a shit espresso grinder (as grinders have moved on massively since it came out) like a Niche Zero. Its like the opposite to what you actually need to make good espresso, and something like a Decent has such a deep configuration option working out what does what is very tough. If you aren’t actually using those options then why did you buy the Decent lol, its entire selling point is that level of configuration.

Espresso in order of importance is water quality > beans > grinder > technique > espresso machine. As long as the espresso machine has a reasonably consistent temperature and pressure, so a OPV and PID both calibrated properly, it will make good to great espresso, that’s all it needs. These start at a 1/6th of the cost of the two espresso machines I listed above, less if you buy second hand.

Never tried sharpening them myself, always used a service as standard jobber bits are less than a pound to get done for you. I normally save up a bunch of stuff including saw blades and get them done at once to save on shipping at hit the low volume discounts.

However, its only worth doing on quality components, I wouldn’t pay a pound or waste my own time to get a cheap ass drill bit sharpened, I would just replace it.

My saw blades start at like £70 so paying £12 to get it sharpened is good value, but a £30 blade is not really worth it, not least for which it won’t cut anywhere near as much material before getting blunt between sharpens. Same logic for drill bills, some of my SDS ones are over £30 each, my augur bits can be over £50 each, so those are worth looking after, not going to bother for a set of 10 bits for £20.

But don’t cheap out on drill bits, nor should you try and use the same drill bit for like a decade without sharpening it.

Think of drill bits like a good, sharp knife. Knives cut far better and far easier when they sharp, exactly the same with drill bits. If you trying to cut something you would normally pick the right type of knife to do the job, exactly the same with drill bits.

If you driving screws or other fasteners with your drill consider better quality driver bits if you have a lot of them to drive, such as building a deck. Good quality driver bits cam out far far less and will take more torque so be faster/go in better. Using cheap driver bits is probably worse than using cheap drill bits.

I was under the impression that ios used sleight of hand with apps to reduce memory footprint for inactive apps rather than how android manages its recent apps list? Is it still requiring special permissions to run non apple apps in the background as active tasks? AI will need to run the background and will need a decent chunk of RAM to do so.

I completely agree that changing the processor or revising NPU or similar is too much to do late stage, I reject that for increasing RAM or storage, both can be changed closer than 12 months from release and I would also reject that apple had the AI changes planned for much less than 12 months out as well. It just feels like a big fuck you to anybody buying a flagship from apple this year as it wont last the length of time it should do for normal consumers who would expect all of the latest AI features to roll out during the supported window.

With how polished Apples AI on mobile was at launch compared to Gemini on Android at launch were it could not even do basics like timers I suspect Apple had it in the works for far longer and it would not have been a total surprise.

Also you are describing the situation at launch for new hardware, the software will evolve every year going forward and the requirements will likely increase every year. If I am buying a flagship phone right now I want it to last at least 3 years of updates, if not 5 years. The phone has to be able to cope with what is a very basic requirement that is enough RAM.

This isn’t some NPU thing, this is just basic common sense that more RAM is better for this, something the flagship iPhones could have benefited from for a while now.