As an atheist, I ask for prayers that the backup’s good.

E: Your solidarity has worked. The backup is good and not too old. Note for myself and you - install your OS on a snapshotting filesystem so that live backups are possible.

      • Romkslrqusz@lemmy.zip
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        22 days ago

        Maybe

        Bit hard to tell due to the resolution of the image, but it looks like some traces may have come up with the IC.

        Sometimes, pads can still be left behind on the PCB while no longer being connected to the vias underneath them.

          • 0x0@infosec.pub
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            22 days ago

            Worst case scenario is everything else melting off, definitely worth a try

          • bigbangdangler@reddthat.com
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            19 days ago

            You’d basically have to repair it the same way it’s built, provided (as the other commenter said) the traces aren’t actually pulled off of the board. If they aren’t, then it’s a matter of soldering that component back in largely the same way it was done at the factory (without the automated machine of course, but by hand with heat and flux). It definitely wouldn’t be easy, but it could be a good learning exercise for the right person.

            • ɔiƚoxɘup@infosec.pub
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              16 days ago

              Yeah, I don’t think the traces were pulled off either. I have tried this once, and I don’t plan on ever trying it again. It was a PS3 and the processor needed to be reflowed. We tried to do it, and while we were cleaning the flux off of the old traces, we pulled some of them off because we let it get too cool. It was very, very sad. Everyone was sad. We all had a bad day that day.

    • Kabutor@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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      22 days ago

      Thats a good advice, for that to work you just need to remove the solder, reball the memory ic and solder back if there are no broken/ripped pads. If there are any ripped pad then still can be done but you need an expert at microsoldering to rebuild the tracks

      • Quatlicopatlix@feddit.org
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        22 days ago

        Yea i would guess the pads are ripped i have never seen the solder breaking instead of the pads ripping. If that happend to someone near me i would try to fix it since it isnt imposssible if you have some experience and a microscope but not sure if your average repairshop can do that.

      • KairuByte@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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        21 days ago

        I do see one potentially ripped pad on there (top right). The rest seem like they should be fine.

        Hard to tell with the image quality though. I’d definitely give it a shot regardless, spend a few bucks to save potentially many times more. Especially in this economy.

        • DacoTaco@lemmy.world
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          21 days ago

          I dont think thats a ripped pad. Right(middle to botton) side of the chip whatsoever… Those are ripped 100%. You can still see part of the trace too

            • DacoTaco@lemmy.world
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              21 days ago

              Those thingies sticking out are like part of the traces. It can be solder, but that looks very sus and with the brown shade i assume its the back of a trace hehe
              EDIT: and i just noticed there is a fitting mark on the other side. So very very likely ripped traces. And the more i look at it the more i think thats more ripped traces then alive ones haha

                • rumba@lemmy.zip
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                  21 days ago

                  50:50 unsolder and transplant all the chips onto a fresh nvme pcb or try to solder jumpers to the traces/pads to the chip long enough to get a data export.

  • mushroommunk@lemmy.today
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    22 days ago

    What am I looking at? That doesn’t…oh … Oh my lord… Brb going to double check my backups in solidarity

  • ThrowawayPermanente@sh.itjust.works
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    22 days ago

    So the thing on the right is a heat sink and the part that looks like a connector is actually a chip that was ripped off the SSD on the left, correct? That’s unfortunate.

    • Avid Amoeba@lemmy.caOP
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      22 days ago

      U know, in my panic before remembering I have a backup, I actually considered trying to power it on like that. Maybe the controller could run DRAMless, I thought. Then I came to my senses that running an SSD with potentially shorted traces in a new board is prolly gonna make a bad situation worse.

  • Captain Aggravated@sh.itjust.works
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    21 days ago

    I’m a little drunk, let that be explanation/excuse here:

    When I was very young, like 3 or 4, in the early 90’s, I remember seeing commecials for what I now understand are fake fingernails. It was a commercial that showed a woman grabbing her–to a 4 year old–normal woman’s long fingernail, and casually prying it back so that it popped off and hinged back with a sticky yellow goo under it. What the commercial was selling was an acrylic nail that attached to your real nail without messy adhesives, what 4 year old me saw was a woman casually tearing her body apart. To this day I chew my nails to the quick so nothing can get under them, and I’m damn near 40.

    This gave me the same “why the FUCK did you pull on it like that?” feeling as that commercial.

  • UnityDevice@lemmy.zip
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    22 days ago

    That might be fixable with a reball. Hard to say from the picture if the pads are damaged, but they look pretty consistent. So either none are damaged, or they all are.

    • Quatlicopatlix@feddit.org
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      22 days ago

      Nah the solder is propably not the thing that broke. From experience i would guess the copper pads are ripped off wich can be repaired but is not easy.

      • jsheradin@fedia.io
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        21 days ago

        I definitely see a few ripped pads but repair is still probably doable. I’ve repaired similar in the past a few times. It takes some patience to say the least. If that’s a high capacity drive in today’s economy definitely don’t throw it out.

        • Quatlicopatlix@feddit.org
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          21 days ago

          Yea its very doable if you have a microscope, i really like the small repair stuff but i would not be shure if your local phone repair guy is able to fix this. If i were in canada i would take a look at it. Even if it is a 128gb drive i would at least try, either get experience or a working drive nothing to lose.

          What did you use for pad replacement in your pictures? I have always used enamel copper wire but i also have seen people use premade pads to gluee on.

          • jsheradin@fedia.io
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            21 days ago

            They’re just some no-name BGA copper foil repair pads. You can get packs of various sizes for pretty cheap. Scrape to expose remaining trace, solder the new pad in place, remove excess tail, clean, cap with UV solder mask, solder down the chip, etc. They’re pretty easy to work with after some practice.

      • UnityDevice@lemmy.zip
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        22 days ago

        You’re right. I see now that some of the dots on the chip are teardrop shaped, so most of the copper pads were lifted off the board.

    • A_Random_Idiot@lemmy.world
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      22 days ago

      theres a couple torn up pads/traces if you look closely on the chip.

      Still probably repairable, but is it worth it if the cost is 50% or more of a new drive, since Op had no significant data loss?